12 December, 2009

I'm In Venice

Wow. I can scarcely belive I'm in Venice. But hey, I am. So...I have a few days' worth of journal stuff, but I'll try and make it interesting for you all.

Firstly, we went to Paris Bercy, which was a quiet and less expensive area of Paris (12th arrondissement). This was our first stop before we took a night train down to Venice.

In Paris Bercy, we went shopping at a supermarket, and I was introduced to the Carrefour. Imagine a supermarket, like, say, Coles, or Safeway. Ok? Now imagine a SUPERMARKET, as in Coles ^ 1000. I went into one to get a bottle of water.


One

bottle

of water.

It took me thirty minutes.

Firstly, the store is massive. I wandered round for a bit, trying to find it myself. Eventually I chanced upon a deli section, and I asked (in French, as I found my French really was quite useful, and each time I successfully used it, I felt very grown up) if they had some water. She directed me to the very back corner of the store. Having acquired my water bottle, I walked back to the counters. There were about forty checkouts, only around ten of which were open. And then, after waiting in one of the queues for a short while, I discovered that some were reserved for credit cards. So the only other one I could find was self serve, where you do the checkout yourself. So I waited there, until one that accepted cash was available. Then, apart from one glitch where I didn't realise you had to put down your purchases on a table with a sensor in order to finish the transaction (my purchases included one water bottle), it was all smooth sailing.

You don't believe me? Think that the store isn't that massive?

The staff moved around on roller skates.


Above: This image displays approximately one sixtieth of the store.

The next day, we went to Saint-Germain-en-Laye, which seemed to be kind of like a Camberwell of Paris. The reason for this trip? This city is the birthplace of Claude Debussy, the greatest composer to ever exist. Ever. If you disagree, then that's fine, you are of course entitled to your opinion. Even though it may be wrong.

Oh, I should remind everyone, it is Winter over here in Europe. It is cold. So far I have seen no snow, but I remain hopeful.

We took a night train, where we slept on a train overnight (I know, the name doesn't really make it clear, does it), arriving in Venice in the morning.




How to describe Venice? It is cold, clear, crisp. The air is fresh and bracing. The sky is clear, or sometimes a cool grey, but it hasn't rained at all thus far. December is actually meant to be one of the driest months in Venice.

There is no such thing as a car in Venice (this is the proper island I am talking about, not Venice Mestre). There are no roads, only canals, or paths. There really are gondolas everywhere, and the people running gondolas whistle tunes or sing songs, though oddly it only seems to start when they spot someone with 'TOURIST' stamped all over their map holding hands, or their camera hanging from their neck. Their public transport system is quite cool. A boat goes down the main canals, usually alternating between banks of the canal for each stop. The stops or stations themselves consist of a floating platform, which the boat bumps up against.

In the city, there are bridges everywhere, over all the canals, and they often reek if you stand too close for too long. There are winding streets going around, and they are all made from grey stones. There are shops alongside the paths. These are almost all tourist shops. It seems that an extremely large proportion of Venice's economy is tied to their tourism industry. There are a few shops which keep popping up:


  • The mask and puppet shops. These shops have colourful, ornate Venetian masks, and elaborate puppets hanging in their window. Sometimes they will have a sign asking you not to take photos.

  • Shoe shops, or shops selling leather goods

  • Shops selling Venetian glassware from Murano. Prices differ wildly from place to place. Luckily I don't seem to have paid too much yet, for the three things I have bought.

  • General clothes shops, selling ties, scarfs, and similar clothing items.

  • Bakeries, with merinques, biscotti, and other Italian pastries in their windows.

There are also flower sellers at major tourist hotspots, who go up to people, trying to hand them roses, then get them to pay for it. The demeanor adopted varies, but the other night a man came into the restaurant we were eating at, and tried the "forlorn and defeated" approach, where he walked over looking at you through dull eyes, the flowers gripped limply in his hand, as if apathy and fatigue had disabled his flower holding abilities.

European Stereotypes: True or False?

  • The French are snobs - not yet decided. Being able to speak French, I have found them mostly an engaging and lively people. They make valuable contributions to shop discussions, and diligently perform every task required of them. It has been a pleasure to converse and interact with the French people, and they should be commended on their fine work.

  • The French smoke - hell yes. Quite a few young people just stand on the street, or frame themselves in a doorway, pull out a cigarette, and smoke. Vraiment cool.

  • The French eat pastries 24/7 - true. There are SO MANY boulangeries it seems incredible that they all stay in business. On almost any street I have been on in Paris (and no, it's not that many), there will be a boulangerie every 20 metres. There are some staples which are present in all boulangeries, such as the eclair, croissant, pain au chocolat, and escargot (swirl shaped pastry like a snail, hence the name). There are also a significant number of fromageries (shops specialising in cheese).

  • French trains are awesome - I guess. They're certainly better than Melbourne's train system. They have a nifty system with a map with lit up stations, to show where the train is headed (shown below)

  • Italians wave and shout and use hands a lot - sort of true. When we were taking a boat to Murano, for example, I went to the desk, and asked "Murano". The man replied (as it sounded to me), "Pour uno, ou bourano?", holding up one finger then two fingers. I assumed he thought I was asking for a ticket, and proceeded to explain that we already had tickets. As I started to talk, he cut me off, repeating more loudly "Pour uno, ou bourano?" So then naturally I tried again, and again he cut me off. I was getting a little frustrated, so I started raising my voice too. So we stood there, shouting the same things at each other, and not understanding what the other was saying. Which was fun, but didn't actually achieve anything. Finally I realised he was asking "Murano ou Burano?" as there is another island named "Burano", and he had not heard me properly the first time I asked. If in France I felt grown up to be able to use my French; in Italy I feel like an incompetent idiot, as I know very little Italian. I compensate for this by saying "Grazie" (thankyou) a lot. They always reply "Prego" (my pleasure/it's fine).
  • Italian shop owners are pushy - not all, but the ones who are, are. Where in France they sort of left me to do my thing, here it's all "you like? You will no find better price anywhere else. Is good price I offer you, very good."
  • You can add "io" or "o" to the end of English words and they become Italian - absolutely. Deliziosio, magnifico, fantastico...makes it a whole lot easier.

Racist generalisations aside, my trip has been fantastic thus far - of course, I am only a few days in. Anyway, good luck with results everyone, and if you have questions or anything, you know well that my longing for comments is never fully sated.

5 comments:

booooooooooooo said...

Comment.

I've read the past one as well... so you've got at least one reader. Rest easy and enjoy yourself. And get yourself away from the computer, enjoy Europe!

Luna Moony said...

My memories of the French train system still haunt me to this day…. I’ve never witnessed a three day train strike in Melbourne.

Where are you staying in Venice? If you go to Piazza San Marco say “hi” to the pigeons for me if they’re still hanging around there in masses.

My dad just walked in, asked what I was doing, and told me to recommend you visit “Gelateria Nico” for an ice-cream…. If you’re still in Venice when you read this.

Gelati Gecko said...

At least one reader, booooo? Check the poll. I have quite a loyal following, I think it would tend to suggest.

And I am not hooked on a computer while Europe passes me by, don't worry.

Ella - the trains have been good for me, but strikes are a very French experience. The taxis were all on strike when we got to the Paris airport, so we had an hour wait. There were pigeons, I noticed them. They were fat and well fed, and waddled in a most amusing manner. They asked after you, and suggested they catch up "for coffee and lulz" sometime soon. I can forward their email address if you want, they said.

And no, we are in Florence now. I can't really be bothered blogging. I will do some later. Maybe. I will upload photos later.

Anonymous said...

I second that.

Aunt Penniman!

NORTH said...

I. Loved. Carrefour.
Except I always ended up coming out of there with at least 3 bottles of wine and about 5 times the amount of bread we actually needed.